Axial Wraith – Consider The Internet Vendors That Will Supply The Widest Choice Of Highly Affordable Axial Wraith.

The world of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for all. One of several areas I’ve set my sights on mastering may be the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned when it comes to driving sliding is preferable to grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is preferable to rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I needed to scoop one as much as see what every one of the hoopla was using this drifter.

Instantly

WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing

WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast

PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD

Exactly How Much: $115.00

BUILD TYPE: Kit

PROS

• AWD for simple learning ?

• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?

• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?

• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?

• Battery positioning ahead of the motor or around the rear diffuser ?

• Aluminum motor mount ?

• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?

• Extremely affordable pric

CONS

• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing

REVIEWER’S OPINION

This drifter has a lot going for it; well manufactured, lots of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very reasonable price. Handling is useful also when you get accustomed to the kit setup, and it also accepts a really wide range of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for individuals who prefer to tinker, which means that this car should grow with you for your skills do.

FEATURE BREAKDOWN

The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It offers cutouts at the base for the front and rear diffs to peek through as well as a bazillion countersunk holes. Most of these can be used as mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are a number of left empty. They can be helpful to control chassis flex, but not with the stock top deck; an optional one must be found. The design is just like an ordinary touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all readily accessible and replaceable with just a couple turns of some screws.

? Besides a couple of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. Just one A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to boost them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll whilst the front uses a fascinating, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.

? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious level of steering throw they have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so when close to the edges of your chassis as you can. This generates a massive 65° angle, enough to manage the D4 in even deepest of slides. Since drifters spend most of their time sideways, I needed an effective servo to take care of the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.

While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I want it a moment’s notice.

? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is coupled to the central gear shaft, the location where the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys maintain the front belt high over the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability for the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included allowing utilizing a selection of different wheel and tire combos.

? To offer the D4 some beauty, I prefered 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica of this car and included a slick pair of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the way to paint it, having said that i do remember a method I used a little while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white on the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the outer with a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the last result … and it also was easy. That’s good because I’m a very impatient painter!

ON THE TRACK

With this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to accomplish an image shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and acquire some sideways action?

STEERING

The steering around the D4 is pretty amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. Even CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look a little funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an incredible job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the right direction. This can be, in part, thanks to the awesome handling in the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.

ACCELERATION/BRAKING

Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I understand that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your own drifter, you may control the angle of attack and the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete that make controlled, smooth throttle changes in affect the angle of your D4 when and where I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Increase throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit and the D4 would get right back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, and the Novak system is designed for exactly that. I have done must be a little bit creative using the install in the system as a result of small space on the chassis, but overall it determined great.

HANDLING

After driving connected touring cars for a time, it can take a little becoming accustomed to knowing that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is the proper way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you buy it, it’s beautiful. Going for a car and pitching it sideways by way of a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at under two or three inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled unmanageable thing, and the D4 would it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you think like you need more of something anything there’s plenty of items to adjust. I actually enjoyed the automobile with the kit setup and it was just an issue of battery power pack or two before I was swinging the back throughout the hairpins, across the carousel and forward and backward with the chicane. I never had a chance to strap the battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m eager for.

DURABILITY

There’s very little you could do to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything that fast. I have done, however, offer an trouble with the front side belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt just like the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept with it, trying to overcome the problem with driving, but soon was required to RPM Traxxas slash parts it into actually give it a look. Throughout the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ which is maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square around the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide away from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it will come in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a longer screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a bit more. Problem solved.